文 |凤凰网酒业 翟庭俞 李予琪
“中国白酒有着悠久的历史、漫长的发展过程和非常深厚的专业知识。所以,酱香酒的生产过程很复杂,我们很难理解,因为它完全不同。但作为法国人,我们了解生产成品白酒的不同过程和不同步骤。我认为我们可以接受并乐于饮用它。”遵义酱香白酒国际推广大使、法国酒商Dim在接受凤凰网酒业专访时分享道。
他认为,白酒是非常古老的技术和传统与现代的结合,白酒如今成为烈酒行业必须列入的一个类别,成为类似威士忌、朗姆酒、伏特加等主要类别之一。可以凭借其自身的传统、品味和潜力,去适应欧洲或美国的口味。
他建议中国白酒行业在白酒的风味基础上创造出新口味的鸡尾酒,一种中国的、亚洲的鸡尾酒,这是一种接触世界消费者的方式,这样外国的消费者就可以开始品尝、发现然后啜饮了。
此外,在他看来,中国白酒出海度数高不是问题,因为朗姆酒或威士忌,也都是因高度产品而受到欢迎的,低度或许在打开市场的初期奏效,另外尝试橡木桶陈酿或许更接近西方人口感。
以下为专访实录:
Dim: Hello to everybody. I'm Dim from France. I'm a French importer and distributor. I’m also the leader of an international trading company for bulk wine and spirits. I’m judge here at the CMB Spirits Selection for the third year.
迪姆:大家好。我是来自法国的迪姆,是一名法国进口商和分销商。我也是一家散装葡萄酒和烈酒国际贸易公司的负责人。同时,我已经是第三年在国际酒类大赛担任评委了。
一
白酒的饮用感受
How Does Baijiu Feel?
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): How does Moutai-flavor liquor feel before or during and after drinking?
翟庭俞:酱香酒在饮用前或饮用中、饮用后分别感觉怎么样?
DIM: What is sure is the Baijiu in general and Moutai-flavor sauce liquor, they are for us as European, very intense product, so they are flavored before the nose, they are very flavored in mouth and after taste they have a very long aftertaste, so they are complete product with a lot of intensity. It's very interesting.
迪姆:可以肯定的是,白酒尤其是酱香型白酒白酒,对我们欧洲人来说是非常浓郁的产品,所以它们闻起来很香,品尝起来很有味道,回味很长,是非常浓郁的完整的产品。很有意思。
二
白酒表达体系的理解难度
The Difficulty of Understanding the Expression System of Baijiu
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): The second question. When receiving Chinese Baijiu taste training, is it difficult to understand this expression system? What difficulties are encountered?
翟庭俞:第二个问题。在接受中国白酒品鉴课培训时,你认为这套表达体系理解起来是否有难度?你遇到了哪些困难?
DIM: I would say that it's probably more difficult for other foreign people than the French because the French are getting used as the Chinese Baijiu has a long history, long process and very deep know-how. So of course the Moutai-flavor liquor is complex in their process and difficult to understand for us because it's totally different. But as French, we understand the different processes and the different steps to produce the final liquor. And we can, I think, accept and get pleased to drink it.
迪姆:我想说,对其他外国人来说可能比法国人更难,因为法国人已经习惯了。就像中国人一样已经习惯了白酒的悠久的历史、漫长的发展过程和非常深厚的专业知识。所以,当然茅台酱香酒的生产过程很复杂,我们很难理解,因为它完全不同。但作为法国人,我们了解生产最终白酒的不同过程和不同步骤。我认为,我们可以接受并乐于饮用它。
三
酱香白酒的口感如何更国际
How Can the Taste of Sauce Baijiu be More International?
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): How do you expect Moutai-flavor liquor to be improved to be closer to the taste needs of international customers?
翟庭俞:您期待酱香白酒如何改进以更贴近国际消费者的口感需求?
DIM: There is probably one aspect that can be adapted to occidental and foreign potential consumer, which is the fermentation process, which brings the product to aromas which are not getting used to the occidental palate. And probably, maybe, an aging in barrel and specific barrel can be sought to adapt the product to the European palate, for instance, and make it more rounder and more accessible to the public. As a professional, we like it, but we are afraid maybe the public can offer resistance in Europe if it's not adapted to their palate.
迪姆:可能有一个方面可以适应西方和外国的潜在消费者,这就是发酵过程,它使产品具有西方人不习惯的香味。也许可以通过橡木桶陈酿和特殊的木桶来使产品适应欧洲人的口味,例如使它更丰满,更容易被大众接受。作为一名专业人士,我们喜欢它,但我们担心,如果不适合欧洲公众的口味,他们可能会抵制它。
四
大赛中的收获
Gains in Competition
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): What interesting things have happened during the interaction with Chinese spirits judges?
翟庭俞:和中国白酒评委互动过程中发生过哪些有趣的事?
DIM: Regarding the Chinese judges, getting them at our table is very important, because they can guide us during the process of the tasting of the Baijiu and they can drive us to give the right word for the right aromas that we feel because our palate are getting used to all the flavors than what they eat, what they drink here in China. So we need to follow them to judge well in Chinese Baijiu.
迪姆:关于中国评委,让他们参与进来非常重要,因为他们可以在品尝白酒的过程中指导我们,他们可以驱使我们用正确的词汇来表达我们感受到的香味,因为我们的味觉已经习惯了我们之前吃过的东西的味道,却不太了解中国的饮食文化。所以我们需要跟中国的评委们学习更好的品鉴白酒。
五
用西方语言介绍中国白酒
Introduce Chinese Baijiu in Western Language
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): How will you introduce Chinese Baijiu in a language that Western customers can understand?
翟庭俞:你将如何用西方消费者能理解的语言介绍中国白酒?
DIM: I think for the Chinese Baijiu to penetrate the market and touch the consumer, it should be used in cocktails. So the Chinese industry needs to work on creating new cocktails with new flavor based on the Chinese Baijiu. I think this is the way to touch the consumer and give it a Chinese way, an interesting Asian way to be drunk. So the consumer can start to drink it and discover the product, then after to sip it.
迪姆:我认为中国白酒要打入市场,接触消费者,就应该通过鸡尾酒。因此,中国白酒行业需要在白酒的基础上创造出新口味的鸡尾酒。我认为这是一种接触消费者的方式,可以给西方消费者一种更中国的、更有趣的亚洲方式去品尝白酒。这样,消费者可以开始品尝、发现,然后啜饮白酒。
Host (ZHAI TINGYU): Do you expect Chinese Baijiu or Renhuai Baijiu to reduce the intensity?
翟庭俞:你认为中国白酒或仁怀白酒会降低烈度吗?
DIM: Yesterday we visited some different producer of the product and we see that they are mastering their production. It's a mix nowadays of very old know-how and tradition with modernity also, because we saw that there are modern equipment which are used and this makes the Baiju nowadays a category which must insert in between the spirits industry and become one of the major categories as can be the whiskey, the rum, vodka, etc. on its own with its tradition, with its taste and potential and possible adaptation to the European or American palate.
迪姆:昨天我们参观了一些不同的产品产地,我们看到他们精通生产工艺。如今,白酒的制造技术是一种非常古老的专业知识,与传统和现代的的混合。我们看到了他们在使用现代设备,这使得白酒如今成为烈酒行业中必须列入的主要类别之一,成为类似威士忌、朗姆酒、伏特加等。凭借其自身的传统、品味和潜力,去适应欧洲或美国的口味。
Maybe the degree to start penetrating the market can be a breakdown. But if we look at the other categories, at least in Europe and in France in particular, many of the other categories like the rums or the whiskey found their public also by high degree cask strength product and so it's a niche, niche for that kind of product, but it can be a possibility for the Baijiu too. So I don't think the degree is a problem.
可能白酒这个度数一开始打开市场会比较艰难。但如果我们看看其他类别,至少在欧洲,特别是在法国,许多其他类别,如朗姆酒或威士忌,也因高度桶原浓度产品而受到欢迎,所以这是一个细分市场,一种产品的细分市场,白酒也有可能成为一个产品的细分市场。所以我觉得度数不是问题。
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